[REVIEW] Biossance Squalane + Peptide Eye Gel (Before and After)
[1]🧪Ingredients Breakdown [2]Instructions [3]Results VS. Claims [4]Before&After [5]Verdict
Price: SAMPLE US$7 (3ml) [with 4ml of peptide eye gel], US$54 (15ml) [Same prices at Sephora]
Texture: Medium-thick cream
What you get: 3ml or 15ml
Cruelty-free: Yes
+INGREDIENTS
Ingredients of the Biossance Squalane + Peptide Eye Gel: Water/Aqua, Aloe Barbadensis Leaf Juice*, Squalane, Niacinamide, Glycerin, Panthenol, Chondrus Crispus Extract, Malus Domestica Fruit Cell Culture Extract, Acetyl Tetrapeptide-5, Acetyl Hexapeptide-8, Tocopherol, Pentylene Glycol, Cucumis Sativus (Cucumber) Fruit Extract, Tetrahexyldecyl Ascorbate, Camellia Sinensis Leaf Extract, Lycium Barbarum (Goji) Fruit Extract, Lycopene, Vitis Vinifera (Grape) Skin Extract, Sodium Hyaluronate, Caffeine, Acacia Senegal Gum (Thickening + Binding), Dimethicone Crosspolymer (Viscosity Controlling + Emulsion Stabilising), Xanthan Gum (Viscosity Controlling + Emulsion Stabilising), Carbomer (Viscosity Controlling + Emulsion Stabilising), ♦️Ethyl Lauroyl Arginate Hcl, Lecithin (Emollient + Emulsifying), Ammonium Acryloyldimethyltaurate/Vp Copolymer (Viscosity Controlling), Silica (Viscosity Controlling + Absorbent /Mattifier), Phenoxyethanol (Preservative), Potassium Sorbate (Preservative), Citric Acid (Buffering), Caprylyl Glycol (Moisturizer/Humectant + Emollient + Deodorant)
🧪In-Depth Details of Interesting Ingredients:
Aloe Barbadensis Leaf Juice: Treats burns (Inhibits thromboxane, which causes a restriction in blood supply to affected skin tissues) + Moisturizer (mucopolysaccharides (water-binding) along with amino acids and zinc) + Wound Healing (Stimulates Collagen production pathways)+ Anti-inflammation (Magnesium lactate in the gel prevents Histamine production).
Squalane: Naturally produced by the body (production slows dramatically after age 30), repairs, deeply moisturizes, and has anti-aging benefits.
Niacinamide: Anti-aging (promotes collagen production and Ceramides synthesis) + Antioxidant (Against UV-induced photocarcinogenesis and photo immunosuppression) + Anti-inflammatory ( Possible reductions in total sebaceous creation of lipids, overproduction being one of the causes of acne) + Anti-hyperpigmentation (Inhibits Melanin pigment to reach most skin cells)
Glycerine: Widely used as a quality Hydrator (occurs naturally in skin, and its chemical structure attracts water). You can find this ingredient in most good skin-replenishing products.
Panthenol: Moisturizing (penetrates deep into the layers and gets converted into Pantothenic Acid (B5)) + Possibly Anti Acne (B5) + Wound healing (‘‘Promotes skin cell proliferation’’) + Anti-inflammatory (‘‘Help reduce the appearance of UV-induced redness and may alleviate the itchiness associated with dermatitis.’’) + Skin barrier protection (B5 is involved in the creation of lipids, which themselves play a significant role in preventing moisture loss from the top layer of the skin)
Chondrus Crispus ( Red Algae) Extract: Antioxidative (Zeaxanthin and Lutein, which are photoprotective and beta-carotene (some research indicates that some forms of beta-carotene get converted into retinol in your skin when applied topically)) + Hydrating (Polysaccharides) + Contains a compound known as Carrageenan, which forms a sort of protective flexible film on the skin which offers a ‘defense against environmental stressors
Malus Domestica Fruit Cell Culture Extract (Liposomal Preparation of Apple Stem Cells): 🔴[Not enough research] Please note that the following claims/properties are have only been researched and stated by the manufacturer of this ingredient and that no independent study has been made so far. One study made on 20 women as well as in-vitro tests found that applying 2% of Malus Domestica Fruit Cell Culture cream decreased the depth of wrinkle of the eye area by 15% in 4 weeks [source]. The composition of the cream also has the following ingredients: Xanthan Gum, Glycerin, Lecithin, Phenoxyethanol, and Aqua, which are also all present in this Biossance formulation. (Note: the concentration of apple stem cells used is not disclosed).
Acetyl Tetrapeptide-5 (Eyeseryl): 🔴[Not enough research] Please note that the following claims/properties are have only been researched and stated by the manufacturer of this ingredient and that no independent study has been made so far. Potentially reduces dark eyes + Potentially Anti-aging (inhibits Glycation, which is a process where excess sugar in your skin fibers reacts with fats and proteins and produce Advanced glycation end products (AGEs) {molecules that become glycated as a result of exposure to sugars}. Glycation happens more and more as we age, and in the skin, it can destroy or reduce the function of collagen and elastin.) + Potentially reduces eye puffiness (By reducing how much blood vessels allow liquid and other substances to enter them in the eye area. Note that this is strictly an anti-edema process. If you have puffiness due to fat pad changes with aging, this ingredient won’t do much for you)
Acetyl Hexapeptide-8: Works as a muscle contraction blocker, which ultimately reduces the appearance of fine lines and wrinkles due to facial expression. However, it’s not an ingredient meant to be used on sensitive or sensitized (due to sun damage, for example).
Tocopherol: Vitamin E (Most abundant antioxidant found in human skin, works as a photoprotective agent + Anti-inflammatory ). Popular culture suggests that it also helps in wound healing, but this is not adequately backed up by research.
Cucumis sativus (cucumber) fruit extract: Antioxidant (Ascorbic Acid, Beta Carotene, Flavonoids, …) + Anti-inflammatory (inhibits the activity of pro-inflammatory enzymes) + Hydrating (Polysaccharides) + Perfuming (‘‘Fragrant components that are not sensitizing to skin’’)
Tetrahexyldecyl Ascorbate: A lipid-soluble form of vitamin C derivative. There is no reputable clinical study that backs up typical vitamin C benefits. All studies currently made have a known active ingredient present in the formulation of the topically applied cream being tested (like this one), making the acquired data unreliable. I’m not saying this derivative doesn’t work. I’m saying, for now, no one knows for sure.
Camellia Sinensis Leaf Extract (Green tea): Antioxidant (Polyphenol) + Anti-inflammatory (Polyphenol) + Antimicrobial (Catechins)
Lycium Barbarum (Goji) Fruit Extract: Antioxidant (Peptidoglycans, vitamin B, C, taurine, and carotenoids)+ Anti-inflammatory + Potentially photoprotective
Lycopene: Antioxidant + Photo-protective. Lycopene is present in fruits and vegetables to help prevent damage caused by light.
Vitis Vinifera (Grape) Skin Extract: 🔴[Not enough research] Antioxidant (Contains anthocyanins, tartaric acid, tannins, sugars, and minerals.)
Sodium Hyaluronate: Hydrating (water-binding properties) + Wound healing (promotes microcirculation)
Caffeine: Antioxidant (slows down photoaging process) + Wound healing (promotes microcirculation)
♦️Controversial Ingredients:
Ethyl Lauroyl Arginate Hcl: Natural preservative obtained from the combination of the natural amino acid L-arginine and lauric acid from coconut oil. ‘‘It had been banned for use in lip products, oral products, and spray due to mucosal and respiratory tract irritation potential. Following a request by the industry, requiring an extension of its use in oral products, the European SCCS experts answered: yes, but only in mouthwashes.’’ [source + study] It is permitted to be used in cosmetics products at low concentrations (like in this one). The studies showed mucosal irritations were made with very high concentrations, and the European Scientific Committee on Consumer Safety did not ban it for eye products. However, I still felt like mentioning it since the eye is technically a mucosal membrane. I would not personally worry about it because a high concentration of anything could negatively affect anyone.
+how to use the Biossance Squalane + Peptide Eye Gel
+what does the Biossance Squalane + Peptide Eye Gel do?
Claims taken from the Biossance product page.
1.Helps reduce the appearance of dark circles: As I always state: ‘Dark circles are influenced by genetics, lifestyle, tiredness, and diet. From an anatomical perspective: the skin under our eyes is thinner, making the darkly colored blood vessels underneath it more apparent. A depression below the eye characterizes the general shape of the area, forming the tear trough: in some people, it’s just deeper and creates shadowing, darkening it. Hence, to diminish dark circles, you would need ingredients that: promote collagen/elastin (to thicken up the area), anti-inflammatory/depuffing ones (to make it less apparent), and brightening ones (brightening the skin there follows the same logic as applying an under-eye concealer).’’ This eye cream has collagen-promoting ingredients and Niacinamide, which inhibits the transfer of melanin pigment to cells, reducing hyperpigmentation in the long run. It also has a good cocktail of ingredients that have anti-inflammatory properties. Acetyl Tetrapeptide-5 in particular could potentially depuff your eye area as long as they are puffy due to an accumulation of liquid (think waking up with puffy eyes or puffiness caused by allergy, but not so much puffiness caused by aging). All this to say that ingredients-wise, the Biossance Squalane + Peptide Eye Gel is a good candidate for reducing dark circles, but your results may vary depending on what the cause of your dark circles are. I don’t have dark circles, so I can’t tell you about my experience.
2.Improves skin hydration and plumps the look of fine lines: It’s averagely hydrating, but that might be just a personal liking as I prefer very hydrating eye products. As for plumping up fine lines, I think it does a bad job at it. It barely plumps them up, as you can see from the before and after pictures below. Eye creams like the Klairs Fundamental Nourishing Eye Butter do a better job with half the price (23.47$).
3.Reduces the look of puffiness, sagginess, and crepiness: I have very puffy eyes, and this product has tremendously helped. I usually wake up with puffy eyes, but I haven't had them in 20 days now by applying this at night. You can read the in-depth ingredient list above, which will give you more clues as to why. Basically, it's a combination of all the anti-inflammatory ingredients and probably the Acetyl Tetrapeptide-5 helping out. Note again that this probably won't achieve much if you have puffy eyes due to aging (fat pad morphology changes). I don't have saggy eyes, but to help any 'saggy' skin, you need elastin-promoting ingredients, which this eye cream does not have, so I would guess this product wouldn't reduce saggy skin. 'Crepiness' is a term used to signify 'thin, fragile, wrinkled skin' usually associated with mature aged skin. From my experience of this not even plumping up fine lines, I don't think it will have much of an effect on that type of skin.
4.Gives your eyes a well-rested look: It does in a 'meh, I guess' way. I still think the Purito Centella Green Level Eye Cream or the Kiehl's Avocado Eye Cream are better products when it comes to giving me a well-rested look.
I want to note that the Biossance Squalane + Peptide Eye Gel makes my eyes hella crusty-like when I wake up. I think that this is due to the presence of red algae extract. This ingredient has a compound known as Carrageenan, which forms a protective flexible film on the skin. This is good during the day since the gel will act as a physical barrier against environmental stressors. But during the night, this ‘film’ eventually disperses and comes off, and you’ll end up with crust around your eyes. I never wake up with crust or eye boogers in general, so I immediately noticed this. I know it’s a stupid reason not to use a product, but I like waking up like a flower (although my hair looks more like baobab tree roots) so I just want to warn you.
If you have dark circles or puffy eyes, this eye cream could help you reduce them. It’s also preventatively anti-aging since it’s packed with antioxidants, anti-inflammatory, and photo-protective ingredients, which are good to have even if you are not mainly concerned by aging since they maintain healthy skin. However, if you're the kind of person who likes their eye cream to make them look better by making the area more dewy, bright, and plump, this one does a poor job relative to other ones on the market. Try the Purito Centella Green Level Eye Cream or the Kiehl's Avocado Eye Cream instead. Alternatively, you could also check out the Kopari Starry Eye Balm, as this is one of the most dewiness-inducing products I've ever used.
When it comes to recommendations, it depends on what you are looking for and the size of your wallet. If you are concerned with fine lines and wrinkles: this won’t help much, and the price is ridiculous for what it offers in terms of results. For other concerns stated above, it should work well with oily, normal, and acne-prone skin types as this hasn’t caused any acne breakout for me, and the gel type is tolerable, even for people with really oily eyelids. For sensitive skin types, it will depend on your level of sensitivity, but you’ll probably have low chances of having an adverse reaction. for people with really dry eyelids, I haven't found it hydrating enough, so if I were you, I'd try my luck elsewhere.
+BENEFITS:
Will probably be of great benefit to people with dark circles and eyebags
Cocktail of ingredients that promote a healthy skin barrier
Preventatively anti-ging
No nonsense ingredients like fragrance or colorants.
A little goes a long way
-CONS:
Not hydrating enough (for me at least)
Gives you crusty eyes when you wake up
Doesn’t plump up fine lines adequately
🧪🧪🧪Score: 3.0/5 ——— If you got coins and are concerned with dark circles or puffy eyes, or you’re just looking for something preventatively anti-aging, knock yourself out. If you’re concerned with looking better through hydration/plumping/dewiness of your eye area, this ain’t it.
+Amazon
+Biossance: SAMPLE US$7 (3ml) [with 4ml of peptide eye gel], US$54 (15ml)
+Yesstyle: If you use my code ‘‘DEWILDE’’