[REVIEW] Healing Bark Golden Tree Bark Mask (Before and After)

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[1]🪵Ingredients Breakdown [2]Instructions [3]Results VS. Claims [4]Before&After [5]Verdict

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• Price (using this link): US$ 14.99

• Texture: Fluffy powder that can range from dry paste to runny paste when mixed with water

• What you get: 50g/1.76 oz

• Cruelty-free: Yes

• Instagram: @healingbark

+ingredients:

🪵Ingredient: Hesperethusa Crenulata (Thanaka) Bark Powder.

+Hesperethusa Crenulata (Thanaka) Bark Powder: Anti-hyperpigmentation (Inhibits the creation of melanin by inhibiting tyrosinase, presence of Arbutin) + Anti-inflammatory (Which is why it’s anti-acneic) + Photoprotective (Acts as a sunscreen. Contains Marmesin, a substance that absorbs UV light) + Antioxidative (notably, Coumarin)

🌳+General: Thanaka powder comes from the bark and roots of Limonia Acidissima, commonly known as wood-apple or elephant-apple tree. This powder has been used by the Burmese people (modern-day Myanmar) for over 2000 years and is renowned for its sun-protective and beautifying properties. Traditionally, Thanaka paste was prepared by wetting a stone slab and rubbing bark directly on it. Thanaka eventually made its way out of Myanmar and into the surrounding countries (mainly Thailand) and is now gaining attention and research by the skincare industry. There are many different powders currently available on the market, but not all are 100% pure. You can tell the difference by how the powder behaves and smells: pure Thanaka powder does not mix easily with water (just like how bark doesn’t soak rain), and it has a nutty smell due to the presence of Coumarin.

🪙+Antioxidative: Free radicals are molecules with unpaired electrons that destroy skin cells by 'stealing' electrons from them. They can weaken the skin barrier and cause premature aging, skin damage, and even cancer. All the hype surrounding antioxidative serums is due to their ability to fight these molecules and protect the skin against them. Thanaka is an established source of antioxidants.

🎨+Anti-hyperpigmentation: Melanin is the pigment that gives our skin its color. Melanogenesis (the creation of Melanin) can be caused by different stimuli such as UV radiation exposure. These stimuli trigger the formation of the compound Tyrosine. An enzyme called Tyrosinase then acts on this compound, eventually transforming it into Melanin. Thanaka powder has been shown to inhibit Tyrosinase activity. One might infer that the presence of Arbutin in the powder plays a significant role in this process as this is a compound known for its antioxidative and brightening properties.

🔥+Anti-inflammatory: The anti-acne claims of Thanaka powder are mostly from word of mouth - which is substantial since this treatment has been used for a very long time. The anti-acne property that the powder seems to have is probably primarily due to its anti-inflammatory properties. Reminder: Acne results from sebum, bacteria, and dead skin cells getting accumulated in the pore and clogging them. This leads to an inflammatory response as white blood cells converge to the area to fight the bacteria, eventually forming puss and causing an inflamed bump. Reducing the inflammation will reduce the redness, bump, and puss, which will make it easier for your skin to heal.

🔆+Sun-protecting: Thanaka contains Marmesin, a compound rich in chromophores. Chromophores are UV-absorbing compounds (ex: melanin is also categorized as a chromophore). Marmesin's chromophores absorb UV light (which has a wavelength range of 100 to 400 nm) with maximum absorption of 335nm. UVA covers the range of 315-400nm and UVB of 280-315nm [source], making Marmesin a UV-filter and giving Thanaka its sunscreen-like protective powers.

♦️Controversial compound:

+Coumarin (present in Thanaka powder) has perfuming properties that give it the potential to sensitize and irritate the skin. Studies are a bit confusing:

[1]One Study made on the powder shows that it has 'no detectable genotoxicity.' 

[2]One sensitization assessment by the scientific committee on consumer products in Europe concluded that it was "able to elicit allergic contact reactions in individuals patch-tested" but kept its status as a compound that "has no sensitizing properties" because the evidence was too small for them to make a status change.

[3]Another study showcased that "Coumarin derivatives, but not coumarin itself, cause skin irritation via topical delivery."

Personally, I don't mind fragrant compounds in wash-away products as they stay for a maximum of 20 minutes on my face. And 2000 years of use of Thanaka powder by children and adults alike make me feel like it's probably safe to use (but that' just my opinion, and I'm neither a chemist nor a doctor)

+HOW TO USE THE Healing Bark Golden Tree Bark Mask?

1.Mix the Healing Bark powder with water in a 2:3 ratio (2 spoons of bark powder for 3 spoons of water). [mixing kit link]

2.Apply a light layer to your face.

3.Let it work its magic for 20 minutes

4.Rinse with lukewarm water.

+Notes: The powder is a bit hydrophobic, so it takes some time for it to mix in with water. As for the texture, I’ve found that the 2:3 ratio doesn’t do it for me, and I usually end up adding the tiniest bit more water. We’re all going to have texture preferences but make sure not to add too much water too fast as the mask will ‘drip’ out the excess -it will remain on your face, but clear water will leak from it. Also, a little goes a long way: I’ve been using the medium spoon for the mix to cover my entire face.

*For the before and after of the product application: The thin spread pictures are just to showcase how the powder dries as I usually apply the product like in the thick-layer pictures.

+WHAT DOES THE Healing Bark Golden Tree Bark Mask DO?

Claims from the Healing Bark product page.

1.Detoxify & Brighten: 'Detoxifying' skin is defined as removing the skin's impurities such as pollutants, dead skin cells, and even acne or blackheads. I haven't had acne while using the mask, so I can't attest to that (the website's before and after pictures would suggest it does a good job), and my blackheads are still where they were. However, I did have two main results after using this cream twice a week for a month. The first one is that my skin is more balanced: I usually have combination skin with a very oily T-zone and a nose, and my skin is less oily to the touch than usual. The transformation isn't jaw-dropping, and I've had better results with The Ordinary AHA 30% + BHA 2% Peeling Solution (9$), but it is still note-worthy. The second result is much more exciting, mainly because I really didn't expect it. I vaguely read about the effects of Thanaka powder before trying it out and most studies referred to its 'brightening' properties as mild. My result, on the other hand, was rather impressive. I've always scarred extremely easily: one time, my friend stabbed her fingernails into my arm while fangirling over one of Drake's new songs, and the scar it left lasted for two years. As for my face, acne scars happen easily and plentifully. My last acne-breakout trip occurred earlier this year, and my scars haven't faded out one bit since. I was very used to having them and noticed them start to fade out by my 4th use of the mask. The Before and After pictures below speak for themselves, so yes, this is definitely a brightening product. Note that the mask is safe to use every day if you have problematic skin, so you could probably get faster results than me if you use it more than just twice a week.

2.Anti-Oxidize: Scientifically speaking, this mask is antioxidative, so it's also preventatively anti-aging as oxidative stress contributes to aging skin. Result-wise I can't attest to anything because I have relatively young-looking skin, but I will say that I was surprised by how balanced my skin was. While testing this product out for a month, I lived between Paris and Brussels, which are both cold and dry. Whenever I'm in either city (I got to Brussels every four months since a part of my family lives here), my skin usually requires a lot of hydration, and my lips get very chapped. My lips still got chapped (I wasn't applying the mask there), but the rest of my skin was surprisingly okay, and I didn't feel the need to apply hydrating or moisturizing products at any point. This was a significant surprise to me. I think that the mask just genuinely made my skin barrier healthier, which in turn diminished its need for other products, especially since my lips still got super chapped which meant that the weather behaved like it usually did.

3.Cool & Calm: I haven’t experienced any cooling effect whatsoever, so no. As for calming properties, my skin’s rosacea has calmed down this past month as I was using the mask (note that I wasn’t using any other product except for eye cream, not even a cream or serum since I test all skincare items alone). But I’ve also recently moved out of Lebanon, which significantly contributed to my newfound lower stress levels; the rosacea calming down might be because of that instead of the mask.

4.Gentle on all skin types: As I mentioned in the in-depth ingredients list above, the powder contains Coumarin, a fragrant compound (although it's also very antioxidative). I don't like fragrance in skincare as I feel like not enough studies have been made on its long-term effect. More and more evidence also seems to point to some fragrant compounds having the ability to irritate and sensitize skin little by little, without you noticing any real difference at first. However, this is of no concern for most skincare products in mask-form since they don't sit on your skin for too long, and we usually don't use the same mask every day. In the case of the Healing Bark Golden Tree Bark Mask, I personally look don't really mind. Does that mean that this can be gentle even on the most sensitive of skins? No, because the more sensitive your skin is, the less you should test your chances with it. If you insist on trying this mask and have sensitive skin, do a patch test first.

I feel like almost everyone has hyperpigmentation or acne scars at some point and wants to get rid of them. From my experience, combining exfoliators with a potent brightening agent like Vitamin C (my favorite is the Some By MI Galactomyces Pure Vitamin C Glow Serum) usually works best, but exfoliators can cause over-exfoliation, so you can't use them every day, and some skin types don't tolerate some forms of Vitamin C. The Healing Bark Golden Tree Bark Mask is a solution to both of these issues since it can be used every day, and it has low chances of irritating your skin because it's a wash-off product. Even if you use exfoliators and Vitamin C serums, combining them with this product would level up the brightening/fading out process without taking a toll on your skin.

When it comes to recommendations: if you have scars or anti hyperpigmentation, I would recommend this to you no matter your skin type, but sensitive skin types should do a patch test before. If you don't have these issues, I don't think the mask would be of much use other than for acne. For other skin concerns: this product is antioxidative and promotes healthy skin, but there are other masks out there that you don't need to DIY that do a good job at maintaining healthy skin and offer more (like hydration). One of my favorites is the Isntree Real Rose Calming Mask.

+BENEFITS:

1. Makes skin look and feel healthier in the long run

2. Reduces hyperpigmentation and scars

3. Can be used every day

4. Great price/quality/quantity ratio

-CONS:

1. DIY-product as you need to mix it in with water, I know some people like that but I personally prefer ready-made stuff.

   🪵🪵🪵🪵Score: --- 4.0/5 I did not expect to like this product so much, and I’m almost sad not to have acne because I’d love to try it out on it. It’s not a revolutionary mask, but it works effectively and relatively fast when it comes to most of its claims. It doesn’t get a full score because I’m not a fan of mixing the powder with water. I prefer lazy-ish skincare.

+❗This product was sent to me by Healing Bark❗[But science-based logic doesn’t lie]

+Yesstyle, (using this link): US$ 4.50 (If you use my code: DEWILDE you can get up to 5% off on any YesStyle purchase at checkout)