[REVIEW] The Saem Iceland Hydrating Eye Stick (Before and After)

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[1]🧊Ingredients Breakdown [2]Instructions [3]Results VS. Claims [4]Before&After [5]Verdict

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• Price(using this link): US$7.70 (If you use my code: DEWILDE you can get up to 5% off on any YesStyle purchase at checkout)

• Texture:

• What you get:

• Cruelty-free: No

• Instagram: @thesaem.official

+ingredients

Ingredients of the The Saem Iceland Hydrating Eye Stick: Water, Butylene Glycol (Moisturizer/Humectant + Solvent + Viscosity Controlling), ♦️Alcohol, Sodium Stearate (Surfactant/Cleansing + Emulsifying + Viscosity Controlling), Sodium Palmitate (Emulsifying + Surfactant/Cleansing + Viscosity Controlling), PEG-12 Dimethicone (Reduces surface tension and smooths over texture), Xylitol (Moisturizer/Humectant), Glycerin, Niacinamide, PEG-8 (Moisturizer/Humectant + Solvent), Bis-PEG-18 Methyl Ether Dimethyl Silane (Emollient + Moisturizer/Humectant + Surfactant/Cleansing), Sodium Citrate (Chelating + Buffering), Dimethicone (Emollient), Potassium Alginate (Viscosity Controlling + Emulsion Stabilising), Methyl Methacrylate Crosspolymer (Absorbent/Mattifier), Phenoxyethanol (Preservative), Xanthan Gum (Viscosity Controlling + Emulsion Stabilising),♦️ Fragrance, Citric Acid (Buffering), Laminaria Japonica Extract, Cetraria Islandica Extract, Mesembryanthemum Crystallinum Extract, Adenosine, 1,2-Hexanediol (Solvent), Zingiber Officinale (Ginger) Root Extract, Eugenia Caryophyllus (Clove) Flower Extract, Polygonum Cuspidatum Root Extract, ♦️ Zanthoxylum Piperitum Fruit Extract, Polyglutamic Acid, Glycolic Acid (At this concentration, probably only Buffering), Arginine, Carnosine, Glutathione, Acetyl Cysteine, Ascorbic Acid, SH-Octapeptide-4

🧊In-Depth Details Of Interesting Ingredients:

Glycerine: Widely used as a quality Hydrator (occurs naturally in skin, and its chemical structure attracts water). You can find this ingredient in most good skin-replenishing products.

Niacinamide: Anti-aging (promotes collagen production and Ceramides synthesis) + Antioxidant (Against UV-induced photocarcinogenesis and photo immunosuppression) + Anti-inflammatory ( Possible reductions in total sebaceous creation of lipids, overproduction being one of the causes of acne) + Anti-hyperpigmentation (Inhibits Melanin pigment to reach most skin cells)

Laminaria Japonica Extract: Hydrating + Moisturizing

Cetraria Islandica Extract (Iceland moss):  🔴[Not enough research] Potentially Antioxidative + Potentially Antimicrobial

Mesembryanthemum Crystallinum Extract (Ice plant): 🔴[Not enough research] Potentially Antioxidative + Potentially Anti-aging (Elastase inhibitory activity and procollagen synthesis) + Potentially Prevents hyperpigmentation (Inhibits tyrosinase and melanin content)

Adenosine: Anti-aging (collagen stimulation pathway) + Wound healing (collagen stimulation pathway) + Anti-inflammatory (inhibits neutrophils, white blood cells part of the inflammatory response)

Zingiber Officinale (Ginger) Root Extract: Moisturizing + Antioxidant + Anti-inflammatory + Potentially wound-healing 

Eugenia Caryophyllus (Clove) Flower Extract:  🔴[Not enough research, most of the data is on the oil extract] Potentially Photoprotecting (Ameliorats UVB-induced photoaging) + The oil has Anti-inflammatory/Antioxidative/Antimicrobial properties, so the flower might have of these too.

Polygonum Cuspidatum Root Extract (Japanese Knotweed): Prevents hyper-pigmentation (Inhibits Melanin forming activity of Tyrosinase) + Antimicrobial ( inhibits bacterial and fungi proliferation) + Antioxidant (Resveratrol BT) + Anti-inflammatory (Resveratrol BT)

Polyglutamic Acid: Moisturizing. Claims have emerged on its ability to hold water five times more than Hyaluronic Acid, which would supposedly make it a better hydrator, but the molecule of Polyglutamic Acid is bigger than HA; hence it does not penetrate the skin as deeply. Its effects are mostly strictly reserved for upper skin layer moisture and hydration. [source]

Arginine: Antioxidant + Hydrating (acts as a humectant (chemical structure attracts and entraps water molecules)) + Anti-aging (increases collagen production through different pathways)

Carnosine: Antioxidant + Wound healing

Glutathione: Potential skin whitening agent (Studies tend to show that the effects get reversed when topical usage is stopped)

Acetyl Cysteine: Antimicrobial + Anti-acne + Wound Healing

Ascorbic Acid: A form of Vitamin C that easily oxidizes when exposed to air or the sun, it doesn’t really make any sense for this to be here except for marketing purposes.

SH-Octapeptide-4 (Neuropeptide-1): 🔴[Not enough research] This is the synthetic version of Leu-enkephalin, a neuropeptide that is part of a variety of different signaling pathways between neurons. ‘‘Most epidermal activities by keratinocyte, fibroblast, and melanocyte are governed by epidermal neuronal systems. The aged epidermis is less active and less responsive than the young epidermis, not by cellular age and content of the ECM but by reduced neuronal systems.’’ The theory behind synthesizing this neuropeptide is to simulate the neuronal system of the skin and get specific results that Leu-enkephalin theoretically gets, such as wound-healing and skin regulation. These are the results of the manufacturer of this ingredient: SH-Octapeptide-4 significantly increased collagen content per fibroblast cell for 48 hrs + Treatment of neuropeptide-1, 30ppm for 48 hrs to fibroblast significantly reduced MMP-9 (degrades extracellular matrix ECM proteins and is overexpressed when the skin is sun-damaged for example) expression up to 37.6% related to anti-wrinkle effect + feeling of improvement of wrinkle reduction (274%), skin moisture (198%), and skin texture (318%) [SOURCE]. No independent research has been conducted.

♦️Controversial Ingredients:

Alcohol: Antimicrobial/Antibacterial + Solvent + Viscosity Controlling + Astringent

Parfum/Fragrance: Perfuming *Has the potential to sensitize your skin

Zanthoxylum Piperitum Fruit Extract: Antioxidant + Prevents hyperpigmentation (Inhibits Melanin forming activity of Tyrosinase) +Potentially Anti-aging (Acts as a muscle relaxant, similarly to Botox) + Anti-inflammatory + Contains Fragrant components that might irritate sensitive skin

A lot of people assimilate alcohol and fragrances in skincare to dehydration and irritation. I would recommend that you watch this video: “Is Alcohol Safe in Skincare Products?” (by Liah Yoo, who worked at Korea's largest beauty company, AmorePacific and now also has her own brand: KraveBeauty) and consult the links provided in the info box which refer to published scientific studies and articles. The main point is: yes, alcohol and fragrance can be very stripping and irritating to the skin, but it all depends on how they are used and combined in the final formulation and of their ratio, the reactions they have with other ingredients, etc…

+HOW TO USE THE The Saem Iceland Hydrating Eye Stick

Use as an eyecream.

You can use it on top of makeup whenever you need extra hydration and coolness.

+WHAT DOES The Saem Iceland Hydrating Eye Stick DO?

Claims taken from the The Saem product page.

1.Cooling sensation thanks to the Icelandic mineral water: The mineral content of water sources varies significantly from area to area, even if it all comes from the same country, so I won't make any conjecture on that ingredient. However, the cooling sensation used is not due to 'Iceland mineral water' but instead to the presence of a silicone: Bis-PEG-18 Methyl Ether Dimethyl Silane. [+The majority of negative claims associate with silicones stem from unproven myths. I suggest reading this piece to form an opinion: "Silicone in Skin Care" by Paula's choice.] I'm neither a skincare formulator nor a chemist, but from what I could gather and understand: the cooling sensation that you get when you apply the Saem Iceland Hydrating Eye Stick is due to the presence of this water-dispersing, low-temperature melting silicone. Upon contact with a hot surface (your skin), the silicone melts off a bit, releasing water encapsulated in the product, which gives off a cooling sensation. So the claim itself isn't wholly invalid since you do eventually get cooled by the water from Iceland, but the whole process isn't thanks to the water in Iceland being so cold that it magically stays that way. It's a simple chemical reaction that mostly has to do with the melting point of our good old silicone pals. Another thing to point out -which I will expand on after the claims- is that although there are no colorants, there is very much the presence of a likely irritation due to the incredibly high concentration of fragrance in this eye product.

2.Brightening effect, prevents straining, puffiness while increasing the circulation: This eye stick brightens up the eye area primarily thanks to its very light-reflective texture. We can thank one ingredient in particular: Methyl Methacrylate Crosspolymer, which consists of ‘‘porous spherical microbeads (tiny little balls), used to scatter light to reduce the look of fine lines on the skin’’ [SOURCE]. There are also some nice brightening ingredients and antioxidative ones that should also, in theory, brighten up the area. In actuality, I saw no results. As for straining and puffiness, I get occasional eye fatigue, and my eyes sometimes look puffy in the morning: I can report that the cooling effect and the presence of anti-inflammatory ingredients have contributed to an attenuation of both of these.

3.Powerful moisture: The Saem Iceland Hydrating Eye Stick is moisturizing, but I don't think it's 'powerfully' moisturizing. It does the job, and that's it. It's fantastic to use during hot summer days as it's both refreshing in a hydrating kind of way, as well as cooling, but this is not something I would reach for if my eye area was dry. I'd much rather use something like Kiehl's Avocado Eye Cream or Purito Centella Green Level Eye Cream, as they are much more moisturizing.

From what I’ve written so far, you’re probably under the impression that I really like this eye product and will joyously recommend it to anyone. This is not the case. In fact, let me joyously recommend it to absolutely no one. Why? Because of Fragrance. Now, if you’re a fragrance lover or a ‘‘Not everyone is going to have a bad reaction to fragrance’’ person, hear me out:

Not everyone will have a bad reaction to fragrance. Not all fragrances are harmful: natural mango scent, for example, doesn't contain any compounds that can sensitize skin unless you're explicitly allergic to them. Also, not all products that contain 'bad' fragrances are harmful since some incorporate perfume in extremely low concentrations. But when it comes down to it, fragrances have the potential to irritate or sensitize any skin. Yes, even if your skin is normal, and your skin barrier is chilling, doing its thing. Perfume can make your barrier worse and worse, little by little, without you noticing any real difference, as fragrant chemical compounds can directly interact with the proteins on your skin and cause oxidative damage. Other compounds do not have this ability but can oxidize with air or sunlight and become oxidative species on your skin and damage it.

Yet other compounds are fine and do nothing damaging. The issue with the way products are formulated is that we, as consumers, usually are not informed about the exact type of fragrance or concentrations used. As with this product, the perfume is only labeled as 'fragrance.' Moreover, usually fragrance is one of the last ingredients on any skincare product list; here it sits in the middle. Hence it has a higher concentration than almost all of the 'actives' in this eye stick. Or has a low concentration, which means the actives are at an even lower concentration and probably don't do much of anything.

Now I could go on and on in this review to tell you why fragrance isn't good. Why, even if your dermatologist hits you with that 'fragrance is fine in low concentrations, your skin type can handle it,' it's actually not. Your skin type will only be able to handle it in the short run, just like it can handle UV rays, with damage only showing years after continued exposure. I'm not pretending to be more knowledgeable than a doctor, but the truth of the matter is that the adverse effects of perfume have only recently been popularized and that a lot of studies are needed for us to state anything of the sort accurately. Moreover, the more people research and study these compounds, the more they find irritant and sensitizing reactions.

Fragrances give a luxurious feel to products and have aromatherapy benefits. But luxury and aromatherapy should not come above healthy skin. Anyway, for now, I will leave you with these resources to read: 

[1]Perfume Allergies by the European Commission scientific committee for health and consumers. Here's a fun little quote: "According to the criteria described in chapter 6.3, a total of 54 individual chemicals and 28 natural extracts (essential oils) can be categorized as established contact allergens in humans, including all currently regulated substances."

[2]Chemical stability and in chemical reactivity of 24 fragrance ingredients of concern for skin sensitization risk assessment.

[3]If you prefer to read something that isn't explicitly 'sciency,' there's this article written by someone who has a very 'I'm trying to diss skin influencers and 'skintellectuals' but ultimately I'm proving them right' vibe (yes, I'm being very salty): "Fragrance in Skin Care: Derms Weigh In on the Social Media Backlash Toward Scented Products."

My final point is, I don’t usually go on and on about fragrance in every skincare product review I make. I only mention all of this when either the brand is trying to prove to its consumers that the fragrances it uses are ‘good’ or when perfume is so high up in concentration that it doesn’t make any sense for consumers to buy a product - as in here with The Saem Iceland Hydrating Eye Stick. The eye area has more delicate skin and also is one of the first regions where signs of aging appear. Using a product that could end up sensitizing and irritating is counterproductive.

If you’re explicitly looking for cooling sensations, opt for something like the BullDog Age Defense Eye Roll-On instead, whose metal applicator produces a cooling effect.

+benefits:

1. Hydrating and moisturizing enough for most people

2. Stick glides smoothly without pulling on the skin

3. Cooling effect

4. Texture is very smooth and gets absorbed fast

5. Very interesting combination of antioxidants and anti-aging ingredients

6. Super cute packaging

7. Very affordable

-CONS:

1. Presence of fragrance at a very high concentration will more than likely irritate your skin in the short or long run.

🧊Score:1/5 ——— I think that The Saem Iceland Hydrating Eye Stick has some very interesting ingredients and positive points. The presence of fragrance at such a high concentration shatters these positive points and renders it useless in my book.

+Amazon

+Yesstyle: US$7.70(If you use my code: DEWILDE you can get up to 5% off on any YesStyle purchase at checkout)