[REVIEW] AXIS-Y Aqua Boosting Essence Toner (Before and After)

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[1]💦Ingredients Breakdown [2]Instructions [3]Results VS. Claims [4]Before&After [5]Verdict

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• Price (using this link): US$ 18

• Texture: Watery with a bit more thickness

• What you get: 150 ml / 5.07 fl. oz.

• Cruelty-free: Yes

• Instagram: @axisy_official

+INGREDIENTS

Ingredients of the AXIS-Y Aqua Boosting Essence Toner: Water, Butylene Glycol (Moisturizer/Humectant + Solvent + Viscosity Controlling), 1,2-Hexanediol (Solvent), Dimethyl Sulfone, Polyglyceryl-10 Laurate (Surfactant/Cleansing + Emulsifying), Glycerin, Carbomer (Viscosity Controlling + Emulsion Stabilising), Arginine, Hydroxyethylcellulose (Viscosity Controlling + Emulsion Stabilising), Xanthan Gum (Viscosity Controlling + Emulsion Stabilising), Allantoin, Hydrolyzed Hyaluronic Acid, Polyquaternium-51 (Moisturizer/Humectant), Beta-Glucan, Panthenol, Squalane, Caprylyl Glycol (Moisturizer/Humectant + Emollient + Deodorant), Camellia Sinensis Leaf Water, Tocopherol, Centella Asiatica Extract, Lactobionic Acid, Bifida Ferment Lysate, Sodium Hyaluronate, Artemisia Capillaris Extract, Houttuynia Cordata Extract, Hydroxypropyltrimonium Hyaluronate, Madecassoside, Sodium Acetylated Hyaluronate, Hyaluronic Acid, ♦️Hydrolyzed Sodium Hyaluronate, Sodium Hyaluronate Crosspolymer, Potassium Hyaluronate, Sodium Phytate (Chelating), Ethylhexylglycerin (Preservative + Deodorant)

💦In-Depth Details Of Interesting Ingredients:

Glycerine: Widely used as a quality Hydrator (occurs naturally in skin, and its chemical structure attracts water). You can find this ingredient in most good skin-replenishing products.

Arginine: Antioxidant + Hydrating (acts as a humectant (chemical structure attracts and entraps water molecules)) + Anti-aging (increases collagen production through different pathways)

Allantoin: Moisturizing ( Emollient: provides a layer of protection to help prevent water loss)

Hydrolyzed hyaluronic acid: Hyaluronic Acid is a relatively big molecule that tends not to penetrate the skin very deep. After its rise in popularity, different formulators have created smaller or different versions of this molecule. Hydrolyzed hyaluronic acid means that this molecule has been ruptured into smaller parts. Depending on the final size of the molecule, it can have different properties. AXIS-Y does not specify the size, but the properties all center around hydration/moisture, some even exhibiting anti-inflammatory and skin-repairing properties.

Beta-Glucan: Protects against irritation and environmental stress (the molecules link together to form a barrier on the surface of your skin) + Antibacterial (stimulate white blood cells to attack pathogens) + Hydrating (acts as a humectant (chemical structure attracts and traps water molecules)) + Anti-aging (Boosts collagen production)

Panthenol: Moisturizing (penetrates deep into the layers and gets converted into Pantothenic Acid (B5)) + Possibly Anti Acne (B5) + Wound healing (‘‘Promotes skin cell proliferation’’) + Anti-inflammatory (‘‘Help reduce the appearance of UV-induced redness and may alleviate the itchiness associated with dermatitis.’’) + Skin barrier protection (B5 is involved in the creation of lipids, which themselves play a significant role in preventing moisture loss from the top layer of the skin)

Squalane: Naturally produced by the body (production slows dramatically after age 30), repairs, deeply moisturizes, and has anti-aging benefits.

Camellia Sinensis Leaf Water: Green tea leaf extract is a powerful antioxidant, anti-inflammatory and antimicrobial compound, but there is a difference between the extract and water derivatives of plants. Green tea water is not well researched for its topical application on the skin. One Camellia Sinensis-Derived Ingredients report made in 2014 debates whether the water extract of this plant is only a perfuming ingredient but no final conclusion was reached. Another study made on mice shows that Camellia Sinensis Leaf Water decreases wrinkle formation in UV exposed skin (results show a decrease in MMP, an enzyme that gets overexpressed when skin is exposed to UV rays and degrades the skin matrix, which contributes to premature aging). More studies and research are needed, but this is a promising ingredient.

Tocopherol: Vitamin E (Most abundant antioxidant found in human skin, works as a photo-protective agent + Anti-inflammatory ). Popular culture suggests that it also helps in wound healing, but this is not adequately backed up by research.

Centella Asiatica Extract: Wound healing (promotes collagen production) + hypertrophic scar healing properties in particular

Lactobionic Acid: A next-generation AHA (called PHA, Polyhydroxy Acids), data suggest it is less likely to irritate the skin as the molecules it is composed of are bigger

Bifida Ferment Lysate: Has been proven to improve skin sensitivity (redness/acne/dryness/…) and help maintain a healthy skin barrier. The exact mechanisms are unknown, but it is theorized that this ingredient acts on the inflammatory response pathway and other pathways usually involved in skin sensitization.

Sodium Hyaluronate: Hydrating (water-binding properties) + Wound healing (promotes microcirculation)

Artemisia Capillaris Extract: 🔴[Not enough research] Potentially Antioxidantive + Potentially Anti-inflammatory

Houttuynia Cordata Extract: Antibiotic + Anti-inflammatory + Anti-oxidative + has commonly been used in Eastern Asian countries such as Japan as a topical treatment against puss-containing skin diseases including furuncle due to its high antimicrobial activity.

Hydroxypropyltrimonium Hyaluronate: 🔴[Not enough research] Film-forming + Potentially Moisturizing

Madecassoside: Derivative of Centella Asiatica Extract: Wound healing + hypertrophic scar healing properties + promotes collagen production (Acts as an Antioxidant). - ‘‘Madecassoside can also help in burn wound healing through increasing antioxidant activity and enhancing collagen synthesis.’’

Sodium Acetylated Hyaluronate: One of the limitations of Hyaluronate Acid (Known to keep skin hydrated/plump) is that it has a short half-life and gets degraded in the skin. Sodium Acetylated hyaluronate is a form of this molecule where some of the OH (hydroxyl groups, water-loving, and binding) groups that constitute the molecule are replaced by Acetyle groups to make it longer-lasting. Minor studies exist on this, but current ones suggest that this leads to a general increase of the properties of the molecule, notably: Moisture + Anti-inflammation

Hyaluronic Acid: Hyaluronic acid is a glycosaminoglycan (GAG). GAGs are usually synthesized in the cell and linked to either elastin or collagen fibers. These molecules participate in maintaining skin structural integrity and are high in water-holding capacity, which means they also hydrate your skin. Moisturizing + Wound healing + Decrease in HA is related to skin aging.

Sodium Hyaluronate Crosspolymer: ‘‘A modified form of skin-replenishing hyaluronic acid attached to a polymer structure that keeps it within skin’s uppermost layers longer, allowing for enhanced hydration’’ [Explication: Paulaschoice] Hydrating

Potassium Hyaluronate: 🔴[Not enough research]  This is the potassium salt of Hyaluronic Acid. ‘‘Hyaluronic acid has two salt forms: sodium hyaluronate and potassium hyaluronate.’’ [source] Most skincare products incorporate Sodium Hyaluronate, which is why I couldn’t find any interesting information on its potassium version. 

♦️Controversial Ingredient:

Hydrolyzed Sodium Hyaluronate: One of the limitations of Hyaluronate Acid (Known to keep skin hydrated, plump and, moisturized) is that it’s a rather big molecule. Hence it might not penetrate the skin as easily as other molecules. Manufacturers and brands have started incorporating smaller sizes of HA to enhance its penetration capacities. Hydrolyzed Sodium Hyaluronate is a tiny cut-up version of HA (10 kDa) which means it can potentially reach deeper layers of the skin. However, Low molecular weight Hyaluronic Acid (small HA) is known to be a pro-inflammatory signaling agent in the body [source]. One research made on reconstituted human epidermis (so not on real human skin) showed that HA versions with a molecular weight smaller than 50kDA could lead to the beginning of an inflammatory response [source]. So Hydrolyzed Sodium Hyaluronate might also be pro-inflammatory. My personal view on this is that even if it is pro-inflammatory, this toner has enough anti-inflammatory ingredients to combat any adverse reaction this single ingredient might have but keep in mind that I’m not a dermatologist, cosmetologist, or chemist.

+how to use the AXIS-Y Aqua Boosting Essence Toner

Step 1

After cleansing use, pour out an adequate amount of product onto your hands and gently spread the liquid over the face.

Step 2

Gently pat across the face until completely absorbed and follow up with the remaining steps of your skincare routine.

+what does the AXIS-Y Aqua Boosting Essence Toner do?

Claims from the AXIS-Y product page.

1.A moisture-boosting daily toner: For anyone that needs a reminder: "When you Hydrate your skin, you apply moisture to it to imbue your cells with water. When you Moisturize your skin, you apply a layer to trap the moisture already present in your skin to keep it there, so it doesn't evaporate. I'm giving you these definitions to point out that moisture-replenishing basically means 'hydrating' and not 'moisturizing.'' Here, I agree because this is essentially a hydrating product, not a moisturizing one. Let me also add that this toner is a very good moisture-boosting product because it keeps my skin hydrated for a long time. It's also very easily layerable (without making the skin feel tacky as you add on layers), so it's able to satisfy the majority of hydration needs.

2.Contains 10-Hyaluronic Acid and six premium natural ingredients. This combination of ingredients hydrate and lock in moisture to reach 10 layers deep into the skin: I counted eight different types of Hyaluronic Acids, not 10, but what AXIS-Y is actually referring to in this claim is that their Hyaluronic Acids of different molecular sizes can reach 10 layers deep into the skin. This could be true in theory since research showcases that different molecular sizes have the ability to reach different layers of the skin. Low molecular weight HA, in particular, can penetrate many layers deeper than medium or high molecular weight HA. Now, you might be staring at the rest of this claim and scratch your head in wonder because if you can remember anything from school biology classes, the skin is composed of 3 layers, not 10. Don't worry, you're right. They're the Epidermis, Dermis, and Hypodermis in order of depth. But, AXIS-Y is also right because the Epidermis is made out of 20 to 30 layers of dead cells (how jolly). I'm guessing the brand means that their toner can penetrate up to 10 layers deep inside the Epidermis. Either way, I can't prove or disprove this claim.

3.Calms and soothes the skin: Surprisingly yes. The ingredients are almost all anti-inflammatory, wound-healing, and hydrating, which is a great recipe for calming and soothing skin in general. Still, I’m surprised at the results I got because the AXIS-Y Aqua Boosting Essence Toner ended up calming a couple of acne flare-ups I had. However, I don’t know whether you’ll have the same result if you have acne: this will depend on what sort of acne you have and what is causing it. My acne was due to my skin being stressed by pollution and the questionable tap water I was using to clean it in Lebanon. I was recently in France and had an acne breakout the moment I landed in Lebanon (probably also due to stress). Coincidentally, I started using this toner a few days later, and it managed to clear up my breakout after only a week. I don’t think this will have such a significant effect if you have strictly hormonal or other types of acne, but it might help since acne is also an inflammation problem.

4.Leaves skin fully refreshed, hydrated and glowing: Yes, for the 'refreshed and hydrated' parts. However, I will note that other toners do better at the glowing part - like the Laneige Cream Skin Refiner. 

Sorry for the difference in lighting !

This is a very hydrating toner. But there are so many hydrating products on the market that this fact alone doesn't make it very special. What makes this product special is the fact that it's very calming and soothing and that it can actually be used on any type of skin. I personally have combination acne-prone oily skin with a very sensitive lip area and a forehead that tends to break out if I apply products that are too thick. I've tried this toner on my whole face, even near my eyes, to see if I would get irritated by the presence of Ethylhexylglycerin - a preservative in this formulation that I know my under-eye area is sensitized to. I got no irritation, not even a burning sensation on my lips, and the toner managed to calm down my acne. So yeah, I would recommend this product to any skin type (except for more mature ones, but more on that below), noting that if you have very dehydrated skin, you can benefit from the fact that this is very layerable.

If you have more mature skin and you're concerned with fine lines and wrinkles, keep in mind that this isn't a very plumping product. If your primary concern is anti-aging, you should look for something hydrating that incorporates deeper exfoliation like the Glow Recipe Watermelon Glow PHA+BHA Pore-Tight Toner.

+Note that I was using this alone with no other products for 20 days.

+BENEFITS:

1. Refreshing sensation when applied

2. Great quality/quantity/price ratio

3. Very layerable

4. Very hydrating

5. Soothing and calming, might even calm down some of your acne, depending on what type it is

6. Gets easily absorbed

7. Has high chances of working with any skin type

-CONS:

1. Doesn’t plump up my fine lines as much as other hydrating products.

💦💦💦💦Score: --- 4.5/5 This product managed to meet all of my skincare needs: soothing acne, hydrating skin, providing me with anti-inflammatory and anti-aging ingredients. The only need that was not met was the fact that my fine lines weren’t as plumped up as they get with other hydrating products, which is why this does not get a full score.

+❗This product was sent to me by AXIS-Y❗[But science-based logic doesn’t lie]

+AXIS-Y: 18 US$ on their website.

+Price on StyleKorean: 18 US$

+Yesstyle: If you use my code ‘‘DEWILDE’’ you can get up to 5% off on any YesStyle purchase at checkout