[REVIEW] Tatcha The Kissu Lip Mask (Before and After)

[1]🍑Ingredients Breakdown [2]Instructions [3]Results VS. Claims [4]Before&After [5]Verdict

Price: US$28 [Same price on Sephora]
Texture: Non-sticky soft gelée
What you get: 9.0 G / 0.32 OZ
Cruelty-free: Yes
Instagram: @tatcha

+INGREDIENTS

Ingredients of the Tatcha The Kissu Lip Mask: Triisostearin (Emulsifying + Texture Enhancer), Polyglyceryl-2 Triisostearate (Emulsifying + Texture Enhancer), Squalane, Sucrose Hexaisostearate (Emollient + Emulsifying + Moisturizer/Humectant), Dextrin Palmitate (Surfactant + Emulsifying + Anticaking), Aluminum Distearate (Viscosity Controlling + Emulsion Stabilising), Dextrin Palmitate/Ethylhexanoate (Anticaking + Emulsifying + Surfactant), Camellia Japonica Seed Oil, Prunus Persica (Peach) Kernel Extract, Prunus Persica (Peach) Fruit Water, Citrus Unshiu Peel Extract, Rosa Canina Fruit/(Rosa Centifolia/Rosa Damascena) Flower Extract, Lithospermum Officinale Root Extract, Saccharomyces/Camellia Sinensis Leaf/Cladosiphon Okamuranus/Rice Ferment Filtrate*, Allantoin, Stearyl Glycyrrhetinate (Skin Conditioning + Soothing), Tocopherol, Ethylhexyl Palmitate (Emollient + Perfuming), Tribehenin (Emollient), Sorbitan Isostearate (Emulsifying), Palmitoyl Tripeptide-1, Pyridoxine Hcl, Aqua/Water/Eau, Propanediol (Solvent + Moisturizer/Humectant), Butylene Glycol (Moisturizer/Humectant + Solvent + Viscosity Controlling), Ethylhexylglycerin (Preservative + Deodorant), ♦️Parfum/Fragrance, Phenoxyethanol (Preservative), ♦️Iron Oxides (Ci 77491), Lauroyl Lysine (Surfactant + Conditioning Agent), Aluminum Hydroxide (Emollient + Moisturizer/Humectant + Viscosity Controlling), Silica (Viscosity Controlling + Absorbent/Mattifier)

🍑In-Depth Details Of Interesting Ingredients:

Squalane: Squalene is naturally produced by the body, but its production slows dramatically after age 30. Squalane is its synthetic counterpart and repairs, deeply moisturizes, and has anti-aging benefits. Squalane is usually sourced from shark liver or alternatively from olives, wheat germ oil, or rice bran oil.
Camellia Japonica Seed Oil: Anti-aging (Promotes collagen stimulation pathways and reduces MMP-1 expression (this is an enzyme which degrades collagen and is often over-expressed when the skin is exposed to sun damage)) + Moisturizing
Prunus Persica (Peach) Kernel Extract: 🔴[Not enough research] Potentially Antioxidative
Prunus Persica (Peach) Fruit Water: 🔴[Not enough research] Potentially Antioxidative + Potentially Moisturizing
Citrus Unshiu Peel Extract: Anti-hyperpigmentation effects + Antioxidant + Potentially Photoprotective + Might contain residual amounts of essential oil that may be sensitizing if you have very sensitive skin.
Rosa Canina Fruit/Rosa Centifolia Flower Extract/Rosa Damascena Flower Extract: There are all different types of roses, they have fragrant properties as well as:

Rosa Canina Fruit (Rosehip): Antioxidative + Emollient (Fatty Acids)

Rosa Centifolia Flower: Mixed with glycerin, it acts as a good moisturizer + Antibacterial + Potentially Antioxidative
Rosa Damascena Flower: Antioxidative

Lithospermum Officinale Root Extract: 🔴[Not enough research] Potentially Antioxidative
Saccharomyces/Camellia Sinensis Leaf/Cladosiphon Okamuranus/Rice Ferment Filtrate: "This super-long named is trade named Hadasei- 3, and it's Tatcha's "superfluid of Japan's three essential nutrients of Green Tea, Rice, and Algae. " The liquid is obtained by fermentation, and the basic idea behind any fermented ingredient is that the fermentation process helps to break down the complex bio-molecules in the plants and helps to isolate the beneficial components for the skin. The Algae component is claimed to help skin hydration, while rice gives high-protein nourishment, and green tea is indeed an excellent anti-oxidant and anti-inflammatory ingredient." As for the ingredients themselves, properties depend on the type of entity used for the fermentation process (Yeast, sugar, Oxygene, …), but are usually:

Saccharomyces Cerevisiae (Yeast) Extract: Contains Beta Glucan: Protects against irritation and environmental stress (the molecules link together to form a barrier on the surface of your skin) + Antibacterial (stimulate white blood cells to attack pathogens) + Hydrating (acts as a humectant (chemical structure attracts and traps water molecules)) + Anti-aging (Boosts collagen production).
Camellia Sinensis Leaf Extract (Green tea): Antioxidant (Polyphenol) + Anti-inflammatory (Polyphenol) + Antimicrobial (Catechins)
Cladosiphon Okamuranus: 🔴[Not enough research] Potentially Antioxidative + Potentially prevents hyperpigmentation (Inhibits Tyrosinase)
Rice Ferment Filtrate: When using Aspergillus as a fermenting entity, Rice Ferment Extract: No significant properties tested on actual skin, but a few studies demonstrate possible Anti-aging (Downregulates Elastase, which is an enzyme that breaks down elastin) + Anti hyper-pigmentation (Downregulates Tyrosinase, which is an enzyme involved in melanin production) + Antioxidative. When using Lactic acid bacteria as a fermenting entity, Rice Bran Ferment Extract: Antioxidative + Moisturizing + Potentially prevents hyperpigmentation (Inhibits Melanin synthesis)

Allantoin: Moisturizing ( Emollient: provides a layer of protection to help prevent water loss)
Palmitoyl Tripeptide-1: (Another name for Palmitoyl Oligopeptide) "It's a small three amino acid (they are the building blocks of all proteins) peptide with the amino sequence of glycine-histidine-lysine or GHK. GHK is attached to palmitic acid (a fatty acid) to increase oil solubility and skin penetration. The GHK part is the important one as it's a type I collagen fragment. When collagen naturally breaks down in the skin, the resulting peptide fragments signal to the skin that it should get to work and create some new collagen. Adding in collagen fragment peptides, like GHK, might trick the skin into thinking that collagen has broken down and it's time to create some more. Therefore, Palmitoyl Tripeptide-1 is believed to be able to stimulate collagen production in the skin, and more collagen means fewer wrinkles and younger-looking skin. [SOURCE]’’ [Anti-aging]
Pyridoxine Hcl: 🔴[Not enough research] The hydrochloride salt of Vitamin B6 is "thought to have antibacterial and antioxidant properties when applied topically to the skin, although there is very little research to verify these claims."
Tocopherol: Vitamin E (Most abundant antioxidant found in human skin, works as a photo-protective agent + Anti-inflammatory ). Popular culture suggests that it also helps in wound healing, but this is not adequately backed up by research.

♦️Controversial Ingredients:

Parfum/Fragrance: Perfuming *Has the potential to sensitize your skin

A lot of people assimilate alcohol and fragrances in skincare to dehydration and irritation. I would recommend that you watch this video: “Is Alcohol Safe in Skincare Products?” (by Liah Yoo, who worked at Korea's largest beauty company, AmorePacific and now also has her own brand: KraveBeauty) and consult the links provided in the info box which refer to published scientific studies and articles. The main point is: yes, alcohol and fragrance can be very stripping and irritating to the skin, but it all depends on how they are used and combined in the final formulation and of their ratio, the reactions they have with other ingredients, etc…

Iron Oxides (Ci 77491): Colorant. "A bit of a sloppy ingredient name as it covers not one but three pigments: red, yellow, and black iron oxide. The trio is invaluable for "skin-colored" makeup products (think your foundation and pressed powder) as blending these three shades in specific ratios can produce almost any shade of natural-looking flesh tones." Some colorants can cause irritation to the skin (notably blue, yellow, and red dyes). However, Iron Oxides have been by the US Food and Drug Administration (since it's a food dye), and consequently as well by the Cosmetic Ingredient Review (CIR) Expert Panel [SOURCE].

+HOW TO USE THE Tatcha The Kissu Lip Mask

[REVIEW] Tatcha The Kissu Lip Mask Texture — **Dosage**: Pearl-sized amount
**Texture**: Elegant jelly
Massage a generous, even layer onto clean, dry lips and leave on. Can be used anytime, but right before bed is ideal. No need to rinse off.

+what does the Tatcha The Kissu Lip Mask do?

Claims taken from the Tatcha product page.

1.Elegant, non-sticky jelly melts into skin and layers on to comfort, hydrate, and lock in moisture: The Tatcha The Kissu Lip Mask is elegant and non-sticky. However, it doesn’t exactly melt into the skin since you very much see the gloss of this product on your lips for as long as it lasts - which is a couple of hours at most. The Tatcha Kissu Lip Mask hydrates and moisturizes but not to an incredible level. If your lips are parched, this won’t be enough to revitalize them. Moreover, the product doesn’t last as long as other ones I’ve tried in the past (from the Laneige lip mask to a good portion of everyday Lipbalms)

2.Plumps the look of fine lines and wrinkles for a supple, firm look: Yes, but I don’t think it’s a plumping effect. My lips don’t feel like they are super hydrated or moisturized when I put this on. They feel okay-hydrated, which won’t plump up any fine lines or wrinkles. They do look firmer and plumper, but that is vastly due to the glossy, dewy, and honestly very pretty effect of this mask.

3.Restores essential moisture to flaky, parched lips for a smooth, soft texture: Meh. The Tatcha The Kissu Lip Mask does provide moisture, and it does somehow restore and revitalize my lips when they need it, but it's only in a 'that's better than nothing, I guess kind of way. More specifically, I have used this on flaky, peeling, parched (very un-sexy) lips, and it didn't heal them; it only gently nudged them towards healing. In contrast, the Laneige Lip Sleeping Mask had miraculously saved my sometimes parched, heat-damaged, wounded lips countless times and overnight. I'm not saying that this Tatcha lip mask is terrible: the majority of people don't have lips that get this damaged, so the majority of ya'll won't benefit from or need a mask like the Laneige one and will vastly prefer using the Tatcha one since it does heal lips up to a point. It also just looks better on the lips from a purely aesthetical perspective.

4.Clinical study results at 4 weeks, 97% experienced an improvement in fullness/plumpness of lips: If your lips are super dry, they will look shriveled and lose plumpness and fullness - much like raisins get smaller as they lose moisture and become delicious (to some) or sickening (to most) dry raisins. So logically, if you apply Tatcha The Kissu Lip Mask on them, they will look fuller as they gain moisture. Since the mask is glossy, it will also add in the illusion of fulness. However, there are no ingredients that stimulate blood flow to the area to actually make your lips fuller (like how lip plumper works), and there is no magical entity in this product that will signal to your genes to start manufacturing plumper, fuller lips. So no, this claim does not check out, especially if your lips aren’t dry and shriveled up.

Tatcha The Kissu Lip Mask (Before and After)

Basically, I ended up liking this lip mask, but not for skincare reasons, but for purely aesthetical ones. This product looks and feels gorgeous, and although it has a fantastic list of ingredients, it doesn't end up doing much in terms of skincare. This might be due to the efficacy of the ingredients to actually get absorbed into the lips, as the texture of the product doesn't seem to leave much room for absorption efficiency -but I'm not a chemist, so don't quote me. However, this is one of the most beautiful and flattering gloss-type products I've tried, and it just makes me happy when I put it on - it even has a bit of a red tint which gives my lips a healthy appearance.

So do I recommend it? It’s not a necessity at all, and as I mentioned above, if you are looking for a product to heal your lips, the Tatcha The Kissu Lip Mask won’t be it. If you can afford it, treat this more like a makeup product with a few nice skincare effects rather than a full-fledged lip healing mask. At 28$ it’s pricey, but you do you.