[REVIEW] Missha Time Revolution The First Treatment Essence Rx [Pro Ferment] (Before and After)
Price (use this link): 27.60$ (If you use my code: DEWILDE you can get up to 5% off on any YesStyle purchase at checkout)
Texture: Water like
What you get: 150 ml
Ingredients: [95%] Yeast Ferment Extract, 1,2-Hexanediol (Solvent), Niacinamide, Bifida Ferment Lysate, Oryza Sativa (Rice) Extract, Pearl Powder, Water, Diethoxyethyl Succinate (Solvent), Propanediol (Solvent + Moisturizer/Humectant), Sodium PCA (Skin-Identical Ingredient + Moisturizer/Humectant), Ethylhexylglycerin (Preservative), Adenosine, Polyquaternium-51 (Moisturizer/Humectant), Butylene Glycol (Moisturizer/Humectant + Solvent + Viscosity Controlling), Vinegar (Adjusts pH), Glycerin, Ceramide NP, Cholesterol (Skin-Identical Ingredient + Emollient + Emulsifying + Viscosity Controlling), Hydrogenated Lecithin (Emollient + Emulsifying), Xanthan Gum (Viscosity Controlling + Emulsifying + Surfactant/Cleansing + Emulsion Stabilizing)
Yeast Extract\Faex\Extrait De Levure: Contains Beta Glucan: Protects against irritation and environmental stress (the molecules link together to form a barrier on the surface of your skin) + Antibacterial (stimulate white blood cells to attack pathogens) + Hydrating (acts as a humectant (chemical structure attracts and traps water molecules)) + Anti-aging (Boosts collagen production)
Niacinamide: Anti-aging (promotes collagen production and Ceramides synthesis) + Antioxidant (Against UV-induced photocarcinogenesis and photo immunosuppression) + Anti-inflammatory (reductions in the total sebaceous creation of lipids; overproduction is one of the causes of acne)
Bifida Ferment Lysate: Has been proven to improve skin sensitivity (redness/acne/dryness/…) and to help in maintaining a healthy skin barrier. The exact mechanisms are not known, but it is theorized that this ingredient acts on the inflammatory response pathway and other pathways usually involved in skin sensitization
Oryza Sativa (Rice) Extract: Antioxidant + vitamin E and fatty acids, anti-aging (vitamin E plus vitamin B and Squalane) Antioxidants like beta-carotene and lycopene enzymes like CoQ10 provide active component
Pearl Extract: Might potentially help with wound healing as it contains elements (calcium carbonate, amino acids, and trace elements, etc.,) that are nutritious to cells (this study). But not enough studies are made on its topical application to the skin.
Adenosine: Anti-aging (collagen stimulation pathway) + Wound healing (collagen stimulation pathway) + Anti-inflammatory (inhibits neutrophils, white blood cells part of the inflammatory response)
Glycerine: Widely used as a quality Hydrator (occurs naturally in the skin and its chemical structure attracts water). You can find this ingredient in most good skin-replenishing products.
Ceramide NP: ‘‘This lipid prevents the epidermis, or the top layer of the skin, from losing moisture. When people experience dry skin, it is because of a loss of ceramides in the skin, which can also cause itching, flaking, peeling, and scaling.’’
Claims are taken from Time Revolution The First Treatment Essence RX (4th Gen) Missha website product page.
Recommended for normal/sensitive skin types. The new and improved Time Revolution the First Treatment RX features a brand new fermentation method called double-fermentation which is done one in warm temperatures and once in cool temperatures to create a more powerful and active extract that is more efficiently delivered to the skin.
A Little reminder of the difference between Moisturizing and hydrating: Hydrating is adding water to your skin, moisturizing is forming a barrier over your skin’s surface (usually oil-based). You need both if you want to keep your skin smooth and bouncy: a product that just hydrates your skin will make it soft for a few hours, but then the water will evaporate out of your skin (the amount will depend on the environment), so you need a moisturizing agent to seal in the hydration. Dehydrated skin lacks water so it needs to be hydrated, and dry skin lacks oil so it needs to be moisturized.
Moisturizes: I would not qualify this Essence as moisturizing. It doesn’t really have any potent moisturizing ingredients: 95% of it is made out of Yeast Ferment extract, and while it does possess some Humectant properties, it’s primarily a Hydrator and not a really good moisturizer. The texture of the product itself is also too watery to lock in anything into the skin. If you’re currently living in a humid environment this won’t be a problem as you’d probably prefer not to gravitate towards moisturizing products since they could feel too heavy. But if you live somewhere dry or cold (or cold AND dry, God forbid), you’ll definitely need to layer on a moisturizer over this essence. If you’re looking for a one-step product that both hydrates and moisturizes adequately, try the LANEIGE Cream Skin Refiner instead.
Hydrates: Yes, it does hydrate, but not incredibly so. Don’t get me wrong, it’s a good hydrating agent and will mildly plump up your skin. But it doesn’t feel as refreshing and hydrating as other products out there. If you have normal to oily skin, you’ll probably enjoy the hydration levels, but if you have dry skin, you’ll definitely need more. While I have combination (normal/oily) skin, I prefer products like the Klairs Supple Preparation Facial Toner which feel fresher on the skin as they are being applied.
Brightens: Yeast Ferment extract and Niacinamide are really good at brightening up the skin as they are packed with hydrating and antioxidative properties, but the brightness you experience is the kind of brightness where your skin glows a bit and feels healthy, it’s not an overall brightening up of any pigmentation issues or scars your skin may have. To treat hyperpigmentation or skin scarring, you should look for either products that directly target the melanin (skin pigment) forming activity of tyrosinase (an enzyme that helps with the creation of this pigment) (ex: Elensilia Escargot Original Repair Cream), or exfoliating ones that will eventually reveal newer skin free of the hyperpigmentation you’re targetting - while I have tried many products like these, none are incredible as of date. The Time Revolution The First Treatment Essence Rx [Pro Ferment] doesn’t have these properties, but the ingredients it is composed of all contribute to maintaining a very healthy skin barrier, and a healthy skin barrier leads to skin that repairs itself more easily, hence you could say that this product would brighten up any scarring in the long run.
Reduces wrinkles: The two first ingredients present on the list are proven to increase collagen production in the skin. The skin is a complex organ and it’s not just composed of collagen, there are different types and all are needed to maintain young-looking skin as well as Elastin and other matrix proteins. Wrinkling of the skin can be the result of sun damage or natural aging, which brings forth a reduction in the production of these proteins. Anti-aging products aim to promote the expression or directly add things like Collagen and Elastin to the skin. While this one falls into this range, it probably won’t visibly reduce wrinkles as it is not potent enough from what I’ve experienced with it after a few months of usage. I’ve had better results with products like the AMPLE: N Peptide Shot Ampoule in a shorter time period. If you’re using this product as an anti-aging product, you’d be better off using something else if you have more mature skin. The only anti-aging benefit this product has comes from the fact that it’s a good hydrator and it will keep your skin barrier happy: dryness enhances signs of aging and speeds up aging in the skin and other organs! So a happy hydrated skin will lead to younger skin for a longer time.
Improves elasticity: No. Let me copy and paste something I said in another post: ‘‘we need to understand what causes the skin to lose its firmness and ‘resilience’: As you get older, your skin declines in elasticity due to slower tissue regeneration, lower elastin (elastic protein) levels and an increase in production of elastase (the enzyme that degrades elastin), UV exposure also reduces the functionality of the elastic fiber network, furthermore, a decrease in collagen production, and of facial tissue also contribute to more saggy skin’’. To improve skin elasticity, you need to have something in your product that directly targets Elastin production of Elastase inhibition, while the Time Revolution The First Treatment Essence Rx does contain ingredients that promote collagen production, collagen itself won’t amount to much in the influence of elasticity. If you’re looking for a product to improve elasticity, the Primera Wild Seed Firming Water is one of my favorite ones for the ‘toning’ step.
The Double Fermentation Process:
Claims BY MISSHA ON SOME ingredients:
Fermented Cica Enzyme. Distributes skin hydration and maintain skin balance: On some Missha websites and some resellers, the term ‘Cica Enzyme’ is thrown around. Cica refers to Centella Asiatica, a great ingredient for calming down skin and healing wounds, but it’s not present in the formula which leads me to believe that this is probably just a marketing strategy: They coined the Yeast Ferment Extract as ‘Cica Enzyme’, can they do that? Yes, easily.
Pearl Reef Extracts. Extracts soaked in vinegar to ensure exfoliation of dead cells and soften the skin texture: As mentioned in the in-depth ingredient list, pearl extract when applied to skin is not really well researched, the only thing that could grant exfoliating capacities would be the vinegar, but it’s present in too low of a concentration to have any of real effects.
Rice Extracts: Rich in vitamins and nutrition that leave the skin smoother and brighter: Yes, as mentioned in the ingredient list above.
What is Pro Ferment α? A process in which the doubly fermented Yeast Ferment Extract becomes a Phosphatide, which means that a nitrogen base is added to link to the phosphate group of the Yeast Ferment Extract, to make it become a chemical entity we call a Phosphatide (i.e: A phospholipid). Phospholipids are naturally part of human skin, so transforming an entity into one should make it gain the ability to penetrate the skin more easily, which is what Missha claims.
As you can see from the pictures, there isn’t much of a difference after the application of the product, if you’re looking for a more dewy glass skin look, either add more essence or use another product.
There is a lot of blabla involved in the claims surrounding the Time Revolution The First Treatment Essence Rx [Pro Ferment], from my comments regarding those claims, you now know that I think most of them are either not fulfilled or very averagely fulfilled. I don’t think this is a revolutionizing product, it’s not a great one either, in my humble opinion: it’s average. Here’s why: Yeast Ferment Extract is a great ingredient, when it comes to providing hydration, but the way the rest of the formula is created, it ends up making the product a good hydrating one. The anti-aging claims are there, but it’s only going to be preventative in aging and you probably won’t notice much of a difference while using it.
There is a loooot of hype surrounding this essence, I personally got introduced to it when I started paddling around in the world of K-beauty as it’s one of the first essences any website or Youtuber mentions. This is the first essence a lot of people use, and the first time you use an essence, if it’s a good essence, you are bound to hype it up, because you have nothing else to compare to it. Does my skin glow a bit and becomes a bit healthier and get more hydrated when I use this product? Yes. But it achieves all of this and way more with a lot of other products. On Amazon this product costs 23$, I think that’s reasonable for 150mL, but I still wouldn’t go out of my way to recommend this this to you as there are better alternatives out there. Specially, if you’re looking for an anti-aging essence/toner/water to incorporate into your skincare routine, I personally prefer the Primera Wild Seed Firming Water.
This is not a bad product, in fact, I would recommend it to people with sensitive skin as anti-aging products can sometimes incorporate harsh or sensitizing ingredients and this one is so safe that I even used it in my eye area and on my lips (that are super sensitive and usually get burnt by most products) and they were completely fine. I also would recommend this to people with acne skin if they are looking to incorporate a hydrating and mildly anti-aging product into their routine, bearing in mind that their routine should continue to be composed of specific products that target acne (you can check this post out:  Anti-Acne products that actually work + A Skincare routine). Otherwise all other skin types, there are better products for you out there. Do note however that if you find this product marketed at more than 30$, forget about it because it’s not worth that much money.
Absorbs very easily
Suitable for sensitive skin
Great for layering if that’s your thing
Doesn’t do much other than hydrate in the short run
Overpriced if bought at Missha market prices (their website sell it for 54$)
⚗️Score: 3.0/5 --- Overhyped, good hydrator and potentially nice step to add in an anti-aging routine but this is not a stand-alone product.